Trouser Talk – Waist, Rise, and Fronts
Everyone talks about jacket cut and shape all the time, but the trouser often winds up ignored. There are a few crucial elements to take into consideration when thinking about your trousers, most importantly waist, leg shape, and opening. In this installment of Trouser Talk we’ll cover the first.
Too often people wax rhapsodically about the particular way they like their coats shaped, while leaving trousers ignored. Arguably, because they have far fewer structural elements to conceal imperfections, trousers require a much more precise shape suited to your body than a coat. But the basics are pretty simple.
Personally I don’t think low-rise trousers really look good on anyone. You end up with shirt spilling over the top, they tend to make the proportions of one’s seat and crotch look odd, and generally a low-rise is accompanied by tightness. If I can see your junk, your trousers are too tight. This is not an issue of taste, but of common sense.
The natural waist (where your body naturally tapers in just around your belly-button) is a pretty universally flattering place to wear your trousers. It looks good on almost all body types, works with tabs/braces or a belt, and can accommodate both flat and pleated fronts reasonably well. Few ready-made brands make trousers that sit on the natural waist, but places like Brooks Brothers, J Press, and Paul Stuart often have a few models to choose from.
I’d be remiss not to at least mention pleats in a little more detail. The fashion these days is for flat fronts on everything, which I do think suits casual trousers like chinos and corduroys pretty much across the board, but the pleat can be a valuable addition to dress trousers. It allows the tailor to give you extra room in the upper thigh that only “expands” when needed, keeping the appearance as trim as possible when standing. This is counter to what most people think.
If you’re trousers are pleated, I generally think they look better with side tabs (with or without braces), since a belt just clutters things up at that point. Trousers of this sort should also always have an extended tab waistband, keeping with the more formal aesthetic. As with most things, you want to create harmony and balance, rather than cramming a ton of details or disparate elements together haphazardly. Otherwise, it’s really a matter of personal preference. I will say that for gents of shorter stature, like myself, avoiding the horizontal line of the belt is a good way to elongate the body and appear taller.
I hope Ethan (of The Armoury) does not mind my using him as an example, but as usual he is perfectly on point. Notice how the different styles pictured here are each styled, where they sit, and the resulting effect. Each is different, but each seems right. Something to which we can all aspire.
I think the rest sort of explains itself – quarter pockets are less formal than on-seam or slash pockets, formal trousers should have no back pockets at all, and if you do wear a belt, please avoid the garish designer logo belts for all our sake. If there is anything I missed, do not hesitate to ask a question either in the comments or via the contact form.
Next up, leg shape.
Thank you to Ethan for the images. And for setting such a good example for us all.
10 Comments
Benn
February 29, 2012Its great to see a young, and shorter guy like myself admit that pleats have a place. I won a few suits with perfectly hanging pleats that I wear on my natural waste with braces, and they look awesome, and certainly make me look taller.
Pleats only look terrible when they are gaping open all the time, and that only happens when a) they are cheap trousers, or b) you are not wearing the pants where they were cut to be worn.
Stephen
February 29, 2012I couldn’t agree with you more.
Z.J.P
February 29, 2012I tend to find that when my sportcoat or blazer is buttoned, you should not be able to see much or any shirt at all. Exceptions do occur with wider cut quarters, but this just feels correct to my tastes.
On another note, and Stephen, you have mentioned it before: a properly draping trouser, while cut much larger than others, can be the most slimming and flattering trouser.
Z.J.P
February 29, 2012In reference to my previous comment about little to no shirt showing, I meant to say below the fastening button on your jacket and above your trouser’s waistband.
Stephen
February 29, 2012I totally agree. That might be one of my biggest sartorial pet peeves. Something about it just looks particularly terrible to me.
Z.J.P
February 29, 2012It just ruins the line of your clothes to my eyes. I am looking forward to a shift away from low rise trousers, and the silly phobia many have of pleats.
valentine
February 29, 2012Please, pleats for women, too!
Derek Guy
February 29, 2012Wait, does this mean I can’t send you the Hermes “H” belt I bought you? It was final sale.
Stephen
February 29, 2012Haha, please tell me you have been mailing people packages signed “From Russia With Love.”
Benn
November 21, 2012Don’t know if this will reach you since you are now doing the Hodinkee gig, congrats on that by the way, I enjoy following you there to, but I thought I would try. Because it appears like you and I are the same height, about the same weight, and have very similar tastes, I greatly appreciate your opinion.
Do you have a personal take on pleats? I have seen many wonderful pictures of Ethan at the Armour making a very good case for pleats, yet I also remember he is a large and solid man, and I am not. I am probably about a 31 waist and usually have to buy a 30 or 32 and have it taken in or out depending on fit. I frequently wear trousers with braces so am comfortable wearing them at or near my natural waist. I only ask because I found some beautiful Brooks Brothers Odd trousers in cavalry twill, but my only hold up is that it has 4 forward pleats, two on either side of the fly, plus a watch pocket. I am just concerned that on someone like me it will be a bit too much clutter around the middle. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated