Mariano Rubinacci – Underrated Style Icon

Luca Rubinacci is undoubtably one of the most-viewed icons of modern tailoring-based style.  It all started with catching the eye of Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist) and he quickly became a street style sensation.  But while Luca is much-celebrated, his father Mariano might be the most underrated icon of genuine elegance.

Mariano’s London House tailoring firm was started in 1932 by his royally-connected father Gennaro.  Funnily enough, Gennaro never actually went to London, but rather only knew it through tailoring and tradition.  At the time, his shop was equal parts clothier and social club.  Now Mariano has shops in three countries (Italy, England, and the USA) and offers a selection of eccentric accessories along with the bespoke offerings.  Classic construction with eccentric winks is the best way I can think to describe Rubinacci’s clothes.

For the last thirty-or-so years Mariano has been running the firm and it’s pretty obvious where Luca got his style from.  Mariano is much more traditional and soberly dressed, but while the color of his trousers might not catch your eye from across the block (which isn’t always a bad thing), he never looks less than immaculate.

Take for example look above-left (click to enlarge).  It’s about as traditional English as you can get: tweed coat, spread collar shirt, grey flannels, and sturdy brown shoes.  Plus a camel coat to top it all off.  Everything is cut with just enough room that it looks soft and natural, but sharp enough that you would never mistake anything for ready made.  A look that could otherwise look frumpy or boring looks perfect.  So much so that I looked at this picture a number of times before even noticing the erupting pocket square.  The ability to put things together such that when someone looks at you they don’t see any one item, but rather the whole picture is the zenith of dressing.

Whether it’s a casual blazer (with corozo nut buttons if I’m not mistaken) or full morning dress, Mariano strikes a great balance between sharp and relaxed.  He’s not afraid to take a bracken-tinted tweed and spice it up with a bright tie or pocket square, but he also knows the visual power of simplicity.

Many guys dressing to impress gussy things up just a little bit too much, and nine times out of ten they end up looking “fashionable” or “slick” rather than stylish or elegant.  In all of the pictures I’ve seen of Mariano, and the handful of times I’ve caught him traipsing down Mount Street, he is always the image of clear-headed restraint and sensible embellishment.

So while Luca is undoubtably a high profile icon, don’t’ forget his father.  Mariano Rubinacci might just be the most unsung hero of men’s style.

Photos from Rubinacci Club