Trouser Talk – The Leg Opening
And here we are. The final installment of Trouser Talk, my by no means exhaustive guide to trouser fit and style. We’ve arrived at the bottoms of the trousers and will cover the basics of break, opening size, and whether or not you should be sporting a cuff.
While things like rise and thigh-width can have a dramatic effect on comfort, the options you have down around the ankles are mostly issues of style. One notable exception is the Italian penchant for wearing their trouser-bottoms like leggings which snag on the calf and to me are both unattractive and extremely uncomfortable. No denying that guys like the Ricci brothers have style, but I don’t want to spend all day fussing with my socks and trousers.
The first thing you’ll want to figure out is how wide you like your trouser opening. There is no magic bullet here, since it all depends on your stature. While I find 7.5 in. perfect for jeans and chinos and prefer a little larger for dress trousers, I am 5′ 7″ and fairly slim. A guy who is 6′ tall or heavier set will have very different numbers.
The general guideline I can give you is that slimmer is more casual, and avoid extremes in general. The same width as your trouser-knee is as large as you should go and don’t go so small that they start bunching and snagging. Nothing too surprising here.
Now, the amount of break one should display is a much more controversial issue. Some traditionalists will insist that a trouser without any break is too short, while others decry it as sloppy.
Derek Guy mentioned Luciano Barbera recently over on Put This On as a good example, and I must agree with him on this count. Mr. Barbera wears what is called a “continental break,” which is just the slightest hitch in trouser crease. For dress trousers the very hint of a break is perfect for me, and I prefer to wear my jeans, chinos, and cords with no break at all.
That said, I must caution you against the current trend of wearing high-waters. So called “cropped” trousers are going to look mighty stupid in a few years time – and that’s if you don’t think they do already.
Finally, cuffs or turn-ups as the British call them. Cuffs only originated with Edward VII, who turned up his trousers bottoms to keep the mud from the moors off, but since then the traditional rule was that casual trousers (moleskins, cords, etc.) and double-breasted suit trousers sported cuffs, while chinos, jeans, single breasted suits, and formal trousers were worn without.
I think it’s really a matter of personal preference. Grey flannels, for instance, don’t look right to me without a cuff, but this is a matter of personal taste not absolute correctness (if there is such a thing). If you do go for a cuff, I think 1 3/4 or 2 inches is really the best course. Anything less looks thin and flimsy while anything larger borders on the comic.
As always, consider these three elements in relation to one another. If you prefer more break, you might want to avoid a large cuff or tight opening to prevent pooling around the ankles. And if you like no break, a cuff is almost necessary to keep things from flapping about the ankles.
Hopefully Trouser Talk has been helpful, and as I said in the first entry, do not hesitate to comment or email with questions, concerns, or feedback.
10 Comments
Z.J.P
March 5, 2012I have a range for my trousers. Robert Petry(Dick Van Dyke) to Mr. Barbera. Anything shorter or longer is a no go for me. Stephen, this series has been a treat. You have a gift, sir. Many men confused by trouser options now have something to clear the air in a straight forward manner. Thank you!
Stephen
March 5, 2012Having a range is always a good idea. And thank you for the compliments, glad you are enjoying it.
Jeff H
March 5, 2012I’m a shorter guy (5’8″) so the fit of the pants means a lot more to me than someone that’s > 6 feet. Knowing the measurements I prefer is important for making sure I don’t appear like a hobbit. Nice work as always Stephen.
Stephen
March 5, 2012Thanks Jeff. At 5’7″, I completely understand. I find that anything too slim, cropped, or low-rise actually exaggerates how short I am, rather than helping. A higher waist and cleaner lines gives the illusion that those lines are longer than they are.
P
March 6, 2012I like your blog, however I find it amusing that you have so many rules that you follow, or guidelines or whatever you’d call them. You’re forgetting about the fact that a slim leg opening favors someone who is skinny and tall and vice versa. Of course, there’s the problem with the socks, but I don’t see any other reason why trousers shouldn’t be slim from the knee and down.
I get that you’re a classic guy, you have probably read Dressing the Man a few times etc, however rules are made to be broken, even in the world of suits and sportcoats.
Regards,
P
Stephen
March 6, 2012Thank you P for your comments. I have a few responses:
1) I completely agree that rules are meant to be broken. But first, instead of doing things haphazardly, I think it is good to have parameters for thinking about a given subject. No mandates, just a framework.
2) Yes a slim leg can be good for tall, skinny people, but it all depends upon what look you want. If looking as long and slim as possible is your goal, go for it. But if a more subtle, balanced silhouette is what you’re after, then you might want more generously cut clothes.
3) Style is personal, and all I’m articulating here is my taste. Don’t feel like you ever have to take anything I write as if it were gospel. Just a guy sharing my opinions and experiences.
P
March 6, 2012Of course, if the trousers are too slimmed your legs will look even longer if you’re tall, which is an issue.
You have to find the balance, as for myself my legs are very skinny and if I would wear trousers with a wide opening I would look stupid. So there’s two sides two everything, depending on your body type.
Anyway, thank you for responding! And once again, great blog.
Benn
May 12, 2012Stephen,
Your thoughts on cuffing Chinos? Not, average, casual chinos, but substantial hefty twill with formal features etc. to wear with odd jackets. I thought about getting a pair with the suggested 7.5 leg opening, and a cuff with very little break. Too hipster? Too odd on a shorter man? Thanks.
Stephen
May 12, 2012I think you can for sure cuff chinos as long as they’re not too casual. The particular leg opening, cuff depth, etc. is something I can’t really help you with from a distance – best to use your own judgement on these things anyway. I’m shorter but like a 2″ cuff, which most people would caution against. Go with your gut, hopefully you like the results, and worst case scenario you end up with something not-quite-perfect and learn for next time.
Benn
May 12, 2012Agreed.