It’s The Most Formal Time of the Year

It’s that time of year again.  The time when those of us who rarely tie on a black bow get to don the dinner jacket and do formal properly.  Holiday parties, New Years, or whatever else comes your way, you had better have your formal kit under control.

I’ll skip the nostalgia where I talk about how things were so much better in the past when men dressed up and a trip out after dark meant white tie and tails.  Instead, I think we can agree that men back in the day knew how to get dressed up and did it much more naturally than we do now.  Very few guys can throw on formal wear like they would a sport coat and  cords.

Laurence Fellows’ illustrations are a perfect example.  Even allowing for a bit of fantasy, the guys in his illustrations do formal effortlessly, expressively, and above all, correctly.  Take for example the guy in the above picture.  He’s relaxed, glass of wine in hand, and looks a million bucks.

His coat is close to the body but not tight, a mistake often made with formal clothes.  Just because black is slimming doesn’t mean you need to slim down the silhouette more than usual.  More importantly, look at his waist.  It’s covered.  Waistcoat, higher rise trousers, and a buttoned coat ensure this.  I’m never in favor of an exposed waist, but with formal wear it’s unforgivable.

 

These gents, though it’s supposed to be summer in the pictures, show the full range of what you can do under the correct constraints of black tie.  I wouldn’t recommend white or buff jackets when the snow is falling, but the green of the front gent’s hose (along with claret or midnight blue) would make a great jacket.  Also, note the various combinations of shawl and peak lapels with single and double breasted cuts.

 

Outerwear and accessories are best kept modest and minimal.  Black and white scarves, maybe with spots or stripes, plain black overcoats (I don’t think I’ve ever seen one with an astrakhan collar in person), and please, whatever you do, keep the tie a black bow.  Straight ties are for bad Oscar parties and colored ties for high school proms.

So as the invitations come in, remember how easy it was for the gents of yesteryear and relax.  Spend more time enjoying your parties than figuring out your wardrobe.