Dressing Up, Not Over

Posted by: on Nov 14, 2011 | 3 Comments

We live in a casual world.  For better or for worse, we do.  So sauntering to class in a suit and swapping that suit out for a dinner jacket come evening is not something I get to do very often.  The Romantic part of me wishes it were so, but it’s more important to understand there’s a difference between being dressed up and being over dressed.

For those of us who love tailored clothing, it’s sometimes a pain to field the “Oh, do you have something special today?” and “What are you so dressed up for?” we get from time to time.  Occupational hazard I guess.  But whether we like it or not, most guys spend very little of their lives in suits (and even sport coats for that matter).  I’m not suggesting we stop wearing and loving them.  Just that we have to do it with some grace.

There’s nothing elegant or gracious about looking like a snot.  In my case as a humanities graduate student, showing up to class in a suit or to drinks in a DJ would result in a mixture of snickers and snubbing.  Sure, I might feel like I look like a million bucks, but I’d be left feeling that way all by myself.  You’re clothes shouldn’t make you feel comfortable at anyone else’s expense.

But I do like “dressing up.”  If I’m getting dinner for a special occasion or heading to a bar nicer than my usual dive, a dark velvet jacket and crisp white shirt might get a night out.  Meeting with important faculty?  I’ll use it as an excuse to toss on a silk tie instead of a more casual wool or knit option.

I do like my clothes though, and I’m not ashamed to admit it.  Sportcoats get regular rotation, as do flannel and corduroy trousers this time of year.  Ties are usually kept semi-casual, and I try not to mix too many formal elements at once.  Looking like an extra in a Masterpiece Mystery isn’t my goal, nor is inspiring ire from those in perfectly-reasonable denim and knit ensembles.

That brings us to over-dressing.  Dressing can be self-indulgent, but it’s no cause for self-importance.  If you think putting on a tie in a room full of open-neckers makes you superior, you need a serious reality check.  Sociability and respect are part of dressing properly, and there’s respectful about alienating others through a swatch of wool or silk.

What we Americans call “Costume,” our friends across the pond call “Fancy Dress,” and I think they’re on to something here.  If you throw on your garb for the day and when you look in the mirror the word “Fancy” comes to mind at all, go change.  I promise you won’t regret it.

Think about the best dressed gents in the last 100 years.  The Duke of Windsor wore very casual (for his time) lounge suits and sport coats.  Agnelli knew when a suit was and was not appropriate.  And you didn’t see Astaire lounging around in a top hat.

Dressing up is fine, over-dressing just makes you a jerk.

3 Comments

  1. Andrew
    November 22, 2011

    I like your thoughts, the art of fine dressing by gentlemen is going away every passing day.

    Reply
  2. Joe Franceski
    November 28, 2011

    Strange to say as the earlier commentator did that he liked your thoughts about the fact that fine dressing is going away. I am not sure that is what he meant, actually. I for one see Stephen’s commentary as problematic for anyone looking to take away something of value from it. He seems to be saying that if one wants to dress to point out that the current trend is wrong, then the wearer is a snot or a snob because he wants to stand out. So you hide your light under a bushel basket then, and pull out your good wardrobe only occasionally, when others won’t think badly of you; or you won’t make a scene? You like to dress but you resist doing so in order to fit in? I don’t know about this. It seems to be of two minds. But ultimately, it comes down on the side of fit in with the “casuals” lest you stand out and be– what? Mocked? My sense is you wear what you like and make a statement as long as it is in good taste. If the message is “no one dresses up anymore” and that’s that we might as well accept it, then why have this blog at all?

    Reply
    • Stephen
      November 29, 2011

      Mr. Franceski, thank you for your comments. I must have garbled the point. I’m not suggesting at all that we should all give in to the fact that most people don’t wear tailored clothing or even care about what clothing they wear. Maybe it would be better at this point for me to rely on someone else’s words to avoid making things more confusing instead of more clear;

      It is both delusional and stupid to think that clothes don’t really matter and we should all wear whatever we want. Most people don’t take clothing seriously enough, but whether we should or not, clothes do talk to us and we make decisions based on people’s appearances.G. Bruce Boyer in a recent interview in the Wall Street Journal

      I agree here with The Dean in that “wearing whatever you want” can be a problem, whether that means sweatpants or dinner jacket. It’s not being mocked or “not fitting in” that I think is to be avoided it’s making others feel uncomfortable. Like all issues of manners and etiquette, it’s about putting people at ease, not on edge. Clothes say a lot and you just want to be sure you’re speaking at the appropriate volume – what you have to say is up to you.

      Reply

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