Bespoke with Chris Despos, Pt. 4 – Final Fitting

Due to conflicting schedules it has taken a while for Chris and I to get together for another fitting. Thanks for your patience, and luckily because things went so well last time that this should be the last fitting. Here’s an update.

As promised in my post about the second basted fitting, the suit is really starting to come together now. Pockets are in, the lining is mostly in, and the lapels are really starting to take shape. The waistband is constructed, side-straps are on, and the fly buttons up properly. No more pinning the trouser waist together in the fitting room.

One of the biggest issues at the last fitting was the level of shoulder padding due to my unevenly sloped shoulders. Seems Chris got it just right and now the coat balance is excellent. You can see in the photos that it hangs evenly and prevents things from looking lopsided at all – this applies equally front to back as it does side to side. There is still a little extra around the sleeve heads that Chris didn’t want to remove until we got it perfectly, so don’t worry about the less-than-crisp shoulder line in the pictures.

Also you’ll remember we decided to drop the waist and shorten the coat. Overall this has dramatically changed things for the better. To overcompensate for the plague of short coats and low-rise trousers available these days I originally asked for both to be a little much. We’ve toned things down and ended up with something brilliant.

The trouser line is near-perfect, or as Chris says, “Alright.” As a man with big thighs and a prominent seat, I can’t overstate how amazing this feels and looks. The trousers have a slight taper and give the appearance of a very long line. The waist still needs to be nipped in a little and 2″ cuffs will be added before final delivery.

Finally, the thing I’m most impressed with is the way all the little proportions play perfectly with one another. The proposed button placement, the taper and curve of the sleeve, the width of the barchetta breast pocket, and the depth of vents all relate to one another in a way that is completely unobtrusive in the best way possible.

Everything works together and looks perfectly effortless and natural. Exactly what bespoke clothes should express. Very few minor adjustments needed and then button holes will be cut and I’ll present the finished product.