Argyle, A Closer Look

Few patterns inspire as much love and hate as Argyle.  The loud-mouthed diamonds are most often seen on socks and knits, and were a favorite of the Duke of Windsor.  They’re sported by trads, anglophiles, preps, and all other manner of color-loving folks.  But there’s also a story shrouded in Highland mist.

A rugged highland warrior ripping his kilt on the diagonal and inadvertently turning his clan tartan into the first argyle is an appealing story, but probably not the right one.  That doesn’t stop it from being told.  It is likely that the first argyles were tilted tartans, and probably from the green and blue of the Clan Campbell in the region of Argyll, but that’s where the Romanticism ends.  A few sources I’ve consulted suggest that argyle is directly referenced in one of Sir Walter Scott’s Waverley novels, but I can’t for the life of me find where.  I remain skeptical.

The first commercial argyles popped up in the late eighteenth century as socks, but remained relegated to quirky country dress through the nineteenth century.  It wasn’t until that ever-trendsetting Duke started sporting them with his Fair Isle sweaters and golfing plus-fours that they really caught on.  It’s about this time that the argyle sweater pops up and becomes a staple in mid-century prep style in the United States.  Brooks Brothers was an early adopter in 1949, and the rest, as they say, is history.

While I love argyle socks with almost anything but a suit (unless that suit is tweed of course), I find a sweater too “full-on” for my taste.  I like it in theory, but in practice it never looks quite right.  A little argyle goes a long way.

This simple pattern becomes a battle line for many sartorially-minded men.  On one side are those defending it’s bold, colorful character, and on the other those who condemn it as cartoonish and naff.  Obviously I fall on the former, but I’m not entirely unsympathetic to the later.

A few weeks ago Will of A Suitable Wardrobe was kind enough to send me a few pairs of his Bresciani merino argyle hose.  In the interest of full disclosure, after sending me the socks Will invited me to write for A Suitable Wardrobe, which I began doing last week.  Still, I can honestly say I’m nothing but impressed by the socks themselves.

Places like Rugby and J Crew are usually my go-to for argyle socks.  Most of their offerings are long enough to be over-the-calf for me, though I can’t speak for taller men on this.  The Bresciani hose are in a class of their own.  The knit is hefty and the merino higher quality than you’ll find in sweaters from most mainstream brands.  They wear warm but breathe pleasantly, and surprisingly do just fine in a cold machine wash.  By any accounting, they’re still an indulgence at $44 per pair, but if you’ve got the means I say go for it.