Learning as You Go – More from Mercer & Sons

I always talk about ordering custom clothes as being a process, and this is a perfect example. A little while back I wrote about Mercer & Sons shirts and the blue oxford David Mercer made up for me to try. The shirt wasn’t perfect, but more than promising enough to get me to place a second order. Here are the results.

Very, very rarely will someone get your first order spot-on. Whether it’s bespoke, made-to-measure, or simply made-to-order, it takes time to get things just so. You can see in my review of the Mercer & Son’s oxford button-down that I really liked the collar and details, but wasn’t 100% sold on the fit. David is very above board about his generous fits, and it’s a big selling point for some, but being a smaller guy I was swimming in it.

David and I had a few conversations about this and he was confident that we could solve the problem with a little creative thinking. Because everything is made to order, you can mix and match sizes across components as needed. We settled on using my standard 14 1/2 collar but attaching it to a size 13 1/2 body with two inches taken out of the waist.

Problem solved. I ordered two shirts this time – a pink oxford button-down and a grey and white stripe broadcloth with soft spread collar. The fit on both is excellent now. Not tight or what many would call “slim,” but flattering and properly fitted.

By sizing down the body we were able to pull the seams up onto the edge of my shoulder, which also keeps the chest from blousing out and required a slightly slimmer sleeve for the smaller armhole. Three birds, one stone. Now the waists don’t require manual pleating to be properly tucked in. While Mercer & Sons’ button-down collar is superlative and enticing, don’t overlook the spread. With the stays out it’s every bit as soft as the button-down and very unique.

I could have scoffed at the initial fit and I would have missed out on some great shirts. But a little patience and a willingness to trust great craftspeople pays off in dividends. Next order I might add an extra button to the front placket (7-button), since one of current six hits right above where I wear my trousers.

Live, learn, and enjoy.