On Fit, Proportion, and Size

Earlier this week a reader sent me a question about the size of some lapels on a ready made suit coat.  There’s never an easy, one-size-fits-all answer to questions like this, just like there’s no one-size-fits-all lapel for every person.  But ready-made brands seem to think there is, and forget the all important balancing of fit, proportion and size. 

It sounds really obvious when you lay it out: a coat ready-made for a person who is 5′ 6″ and 130lbs and one intended for the 6′ 2″ 200lbs man should not have the same size lapels.  Anyone disagree with that?  I didn’t think so.  And it doesn’t just stop at lapel width – pocket flaps, vent depth, button stance, and a whole slew of other details fall into the same camp.

The reader I mentioned was specifically curious about the J Crew double-breasted Ludlow suit coat pictured.  His concern was that at 3.25″ the lapels would not stand the test of time and he’d quickly find himself with an outré coat.  And not an inexpensive one at that.  Luckily, he’s the same-ish size as me, so it wasn’t too difficult for me to lend a hand.

At 5′ 7″ and 140lbs I am on the smaller side, and though my stomach is far from washboard flat I don’t have to worry about any bulging either.  3.25″ lapels are on the slim side for a double-breasted coat, but with my stature the proportions are still in decent enough balance.  The lapels won’t look like kippers as they do on the probably 6″+ beanpole model.  While probably still too slim for my taste, they might work for someone.  And not just for a year or two.

But does it make any sense that the model and I wear a coat with the same dimensions when our bodies are so different?  Not a bit.

It all comes down to the economy of ready-made.  It’s much, much cheaper for a brand to keep their patterns as streamlined as possible.  And honestly, most consumers won’t notice half an inch here and there.  It’s nothing that we can expect to change anytime soon, so adapting is the only solution.  For those of us who are a little more finicky, it helps to be careful about which fits, models, and blocks we buy, and to keep this pitfall in mind when prowling amongst the racks.

Smaller guys – as the wide lapel trend comes back, be wary.  I love heftier flaps, but since most coats are designed to look best at about a size 40, you want to make sure you don’t look like an extra in from Saturday Night Fever when you throw on a 36 or 38.  Be equally wary of the super-slim trend, since it just makes you look smaller and more childish, not more streamlined.

Bigger gents – I’m sure you already know this, but lapels bordering on pen knives don’t do you any favors.  Stick to brands’ more “traditional” cuts and spend the few bucks to get coat waists nipped if you want your coat with more shape.  Also be aware that trouser rise is usually standardized in a given model, so anything extra low is going to be a problem.  No reason for uncomfortable trousers.

The real lesson here is a simple one, and not something I came up with on my own: proportion is everything.  We’re all different sizes and shapes, and our clothes should be too.

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