Fashion Week – Bombers and Basics

Posted by: on Feb 20, 2012 | No Comments

Fashion is to some degree about creating buzz.  It’s this way by necessity.  New York Fashion Week is winding down, and for every great collection of clothes there were dozens of unwearable collections.  I think it is as good a time as ever to talk about separating the statements from good clothes. 

I’ll start with the good.  Pretty much in agreement with the majority of guys covering this kind of thing, I think Ovadia & Sons, Todd Snyder, and Michael Bastian were the top three performers last week.  But I don’t think I like them for the same reasons most gents do.

Sure that Ovadia & Sons flannel bomber with mink collar is the best damn bomber jacket I can think of.  But it’s a fur-collared bomber jacket.  It’s a sort of statement outerwear piece.  That stuff is all good and well, but a functional wardrobe it does not make.

How about a pair of trousers with a decent rise and legs that aren’t skin tight?  How about cardigans that look good both as a jacket replacement and under a jacket?  Those are the sorts of things that are getting harder to come by as everyone keeps trying to design the next big thing.  And consequently this is the stuff I really got excited over in Ovadia & Sons new collection.

Todd Snyder is the same way.  Almost every single piece of outerwear in this collection could be from 50 years ago, but none of it looks antiquated.  Slim cargos on the other hand are not my thing, but I truly am having a hard time figuring out which coat to start saving for.  Add some wearable basics and we’re cooking.  It sounds simple, but so many people over-design these garments, assuming that people will only buy things if they attract attention and get labeled “next season’s IT item.”

Mr. Bastian might give Mr. Snyder some competition on the outerwear front.  If the quilted jacket comes with a French Bulldog the contest will be over.  Overall though, Michael Bastian’s collection was the hardest for me to process.  My first instinct was to love it.  It’s hard not to think he totally killed it at first glance.  But then I started looking closer and I worry that everything is just a little too modern for me.

Trouser rise is too short, jacket buttons too high, lapels too slim, and generally things were just too skimpy.  I know a lot of the items in this collection will be on people’s holy grail list for next winter, since this is what they’re looking for, but not for me.  Some of the models didn’t look like they would be able to button their jackets for crying out loud.

There are a hundred brands making low-rise cargos and jackets that button at the sternum, and often it’s these pieces that get them lauded as the brands to buy.  Instead, I’ll be spending my money on the kind of clothes that excite me when I walk into my closet each morning, not those that get round after round of fashion week applause.

Images all from GQ.com

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