Bastian and Barneys – Credit Where It’s Due

You’ve got to give credit where it’s due. I am often critical of so-called “designer tailoring” when it (often) misses the mark. But the latest collection from Michael Bastian and Barney’s, exclusively previewed yesterday on The GQ Eye, knocks the genre out of the park.

Usual pitfalls for designer suits include poor construction, inflated prices, garish materials, and cuts that will look foolish mere minutes after you’ve taken the coat off the hanger. And that’s assuming it didn’t already look terrible when you bought it. Bastian’s new duds avoid all of the above and offer a great alternative.

Instead of the “fun” cloth choices that most designers opt for, Bastian has stuck to the basics. Every piece in the collection could be classified as a wardrobe staple. Personally, I would never encourage you to buy a plain black suit, but if you wanted one you could do worse than this. My favorite piece though, hands down, is the windowpane sport coat – just the right amount of pattern, and something anyone can pull off. Just please don’t pop the collar.

Now, as far as fit goes, I think Bastian has come up with something that is modern but in a restrained way. Take the trousers for instance. The rise is medium-low, but there is a little fullness in the thigh and gentle taper from the knee to the ankle. Nothing dramatic or skinny, but something approachable for guys who grew up wearing nothing but jeans.

The coats really stand out amongst the competition. None of the razor-thin lapels that have become so popular these days. Instead Bastian gives us a proper proportion of lapel to shoulder, and even adds a little belly (curve) just above the buttons.

Butts are covered, another quality that’s surprisingly hard to find right now, and the overall silhouette is one that most guys will find flattering and comfortable. I could do with a slightly lower button-stance, but now I’m just looking for things to criticize.

While I can’t speak to the quality of make, if they’re anything like Bastian’s other offerings, you could do much worse. And for $1500 or less, they look like one of the better options out there.

Check out the piece at The GQ Eye for full preview and purchase info.